Before you hang
The questions that come in most often, starting with the one everybody asks first.
Is the load figure for the whole rack or for one rail?
For the whole frame, with the weight spread along the span. A double-rod rack rated to 600 lbs is not two rails of 600. Load a rack the way you would load a shelf: evenly, and not all at one end.
How do I know it will fit?
Every page prints width, height and depth in inches. Chalk those three on the floor before you order. If the rack rolls, leave a hand-width behind it so the casters have somewhere to go when you move it.
Do I need tools?
Almost never. The frames go together with the pins and connectors in the box, on the floor, and nothing screws into a wall. A rubber mallet helps on the wire shelving, where the collars have to seat on the posts, but hands do the job.
Open rail or covered frame?
Ask what the room does rather than what it looks like. A heated bedroom is fine with an open rail. A garage, a basement or a spare room nobody warms will gray the shoulders of everything hanging within a season, and a zipped cover is worth more than it costs.
Will the casters mark a wood floor?
The wheels are rubber, not bare plastic, and they roll on wood, tile and low pile. Grit is what marks a floor, not the caster, so sweep the run before you push a loaded frame across it.
Can I take a shelf out or move a rod?
On most frames, yes. Wire shelving moves in one-inch steps up the post, and the rails on the adjustable racks lift in fixed notches. The specification on each page says how many rods and shelves that particular frame has.
Who takes the payment?
Our retail partner. The button on each page opens that frame on their listing, and the price, the stock, the delivery date and any return are handled entirely by them.
The price here does not match the price there.
Theirs is the real one. We refresh the figures on this site regularly, but a listing can move between one refresh and the next, so treat what you see here as a guide.